Fancy shaped diamonds are all a little different. Longer or wider, more curved or less, each one with its own personality. That’s wonderful in the world of center stones where the uniqueness of each shape and its subtle differences make it stand out from the crowd. But when you are looking for melee, small diamonds less than 0.20 carats, the variety you see in fancy shapes becomes a drawback. After all, the most important thing you are looking for in melee diamonds is consistency. You want the melee in each piece to match. And you want to be able to create a design and set it with melee that will fit perfectly every time you make it. That’s why buying fancy shape melee is much more difficult than buying single fancy shapes or round melee diamonds.

We try to make it as easy as possible for our customers to buy exactly the fancy shape melee diamonds they need by individually measuring and sorting every stone so that the melee you buy from us all matches. If you think that’s easy, you haven’t matched 30 carats of 8-point ovals!

At K. Rosengart, we offer 75 different sizes of baguette diamonds in two different qualities. And even more sizes of tapered baguette diamonds. Still, the number one issue our customers have with fancy melee is that they create a design first and then find out that the melee they specified isn’t available and has to be custom cut.

You will make your life easier if you design around the fancy shape melee sizes that are most available (and affordable) so you won’t find yourself looking everywhere for a nonexistent 3mm trilliant. Let us know what melee sizes you’re considering and we’ll let you know if there are any availability issues before you finalize your design.

Generally, we stock our fancy shape melee diamonds in two qualities: D-G VS quality and H SI quality. Lower qualities may take a bit more time. We have no minimum order. You can order one 10-point diamond to replace a missing stone or hundreds of carats of one-point diamonds. As always, we test every single diamond, no matter how small, to make sure that there are no lab-grown gems mixed in.

And we also carry recycled diamond melee. We test, boil, and clean it and measure, sort and match it just like newly cut diamond melee. It’s the perfect accent for traceable center diamonds and helps your brand be as sustainable as possible.

Here are the most popular fancy shapes for melee diamonds and what you should consider when buying each shape.

Baguette Diamond Melee

Baguette diamonds are really popular right now. This four-cornered step cut is a classic accent gem. The most important thing to look for when buying baguette diamonds is a nice table size. That’s because you want to see the angles of the step cut. When the table is too big, baguettes can look too flat. Baguettes really need to have a consistent depth to look uniform: you can really notice differences in depth because of the facet pattern.

When it comes to quality, we recommend VS clarity for baguette diamonds. Always check baguettes for chips, especially in the corners. There are so many sizes available, not just round numbers, starting at 0.02 ct or 2x1mm. You may find that buying a slightly different size will help with availability and affordability. For example, 4x2mm is a very popular size for baguette diamonds with lots of demand. If you create a design that uses 3.8x1.8mm baguettes, they will be more available and affordable. Reach out and ask us and we might be able to recommend a better size option.

Tapered Baguette Diamonds

Tapered baguette diamonds aren’t all the same shape. The angle of the sides can be subtle or more dramatic, like a pizza slice. There are even more sizes of tapered baguettes than of straight baguettes since there is an additional measurement. That means they are even more challenging to match. Like regular baguette diamonds, a nice table size will help you see the angles. Look for consistent depth so they look uniform. Because tapered baguette diamonds are step cuts, we recommend VS clarity. Tapered baguettes always have three measurements: the length, the top (the wider side of the taper), and the bottom (the narrow part of the taper). Sizes start at 2.5x1.5x1mm, which is 0.03ct, up to about 6mm. Sizes above that are very difficult to source.

Princess Cut Melee Diamonds

Princess cut melee diamonds should be square, not rectangular. Because of the parameters of the princess cut, it’s usually not too difficult to get princess cut melee that’s cut all to the same depth. You do need to make sure that girdles are consistent to make it easy to set, especially if you are channel setting. (Your setter will thank you!) Because of the brilliance of princess cut diamonds, you can even go as low as I1 clarity. Princess cuts diamond melee are available in a wide range of sizes starting at 1.5mm, which is 0.02 carats. We sometimes get asked for 1mm princess cut melee but this size basically doesn’t exist.

Oval Diamond Melee

Oval diamonds are really popular right now and oval melee diamonds are no exception. They are a lovely option for eternity bands. Our customers are looking for oval diamond melee without bowties. Of course, with this cut, there will always be some dark reflections, but we always choose proportions that minimize the bowtie effect, even in our oval melee. We stock ovals in 0.05 carat and up, which is a 3.2mm size. You really start to see the shape over 0.10 carats. We recommend SI2 or better quality. The most challenging factor is to match the outline. We recommend a pleasant classically proportioned oval silhouette, not too long and without pronounced shoulders.

Pear Diamond Melee

The most important thing to look for when buying pear shape diamonds, even in melee sizes, is a pleasing outline. An elegant teardrop shape that’s not too elongated will really stand out. You want to avoid buying pear shape melee diamonds with a dramatic bowtie in the center. These dark reflections will always be there in pear shapes but if you select the right proportions, you can minimize the effect. Look out for chips on the point. The most difficult part of sorting pear melee diamonds is matching the width and length and curves of the outline, especially in large quantities. You’ll find pear shape melee in sizes from 0.05 carats up, which is a 3x2mm size.

Marquise Diamond Melee

There’s something so pretty about marquise diamond melee. They are becoming more popular recently. They look great set in eternity bands also, especially at an angle like dominoes. Like ovals and pears, bow tie dark reflections in the center are always an issue. We select marquise melee that don’t have a prominent bow tie. Check for chips, especially on the points. Marquise melee diamonds are available from 0.03 carats and up, or 2.8x1.5mm.

Emerald Cut Melee Diamonds

Emerald cut melee diamonds are less available than baguette diamonds. You really can’t see the cut corners that make this fancy shape so distinctive until you reach the 0.08-carat size: 2.8x2.1mm. We recommend VS clarity for emerald cut melee diamonds since inclusions are so easy to see in step cuts. It’s very important to match the length of the cut corners to get a uniform look. We’re seeing small emerald cut diamonds used more often in styles from bezel set studs to burnished settings in signet rings.

Carre Cut Diamonds

What are carre cut diamonds? Carre cut diamonds are square step cuts with four sharp corners. The facet patterns look like emerald or Asscher cuts but with the square outline of the princess cut. Carre cut melee diamonds give a design an Art Deco look. They are a specialty item that most suppliers don’t cut. Like all the other step cuts, we recommend VS clarity carre cut diamonds. Look for a square outline and consistent depth for a uniform look. Carre cut diamond melee is available starting at 0.02 ct, or 1.5mm.

Other Fancy Shape Melee Diamonds

Other melee available--but less in demand--are cushion shapes, trilliants, radiants, and hearts. It’s more common to see these shapes in 0.30 carats and up rather than the small sizes. Trilliants are most often sold in matched pairs for ringside stones. We can find you heart shape melee as small as 0.07 carats.

No matter which diamond melee shape catches your fancy, we can find it. If it doesn’t exist, we can even have it custom cut for you.